Monday, July 25, 2005

Planet Perth

perth


Got up last Wednesday and decided that I really had to do something about leaving Perth despite being sodden with cold. Went to the travel agent and was a vulnerable mess of sniffles and coughs. Which is the excuse that I give for what happened next. As I tried to to escape Western Australia I was told that I would have to wait until the following week. Hum. But what was I going to do in the mean time?????


A tour?

Really?

Me?

A tour?


Ok then, why not. Now this is not something that I usually do (mainly because I don't often have enough money) and so I signed up for a four day trip up the coast. I did try and get one down the coast but it was full so I went the other way. And then bought a plane ticket to take me to Adelaide on Monday night.

I was feeling pretty proud of myself for sorting so many things out and all before lunch. Then reality hit me. What if it was a busload of Gap year kids? What if it was some kind of pissed up party bus where nubile eighteen year old spent the whole four days swapping partners while Grandma Helen sat in the corner tutting annoyingly and blathering on about youth being wasted on the young? I started to get scared. I told the hostel owner what I had done and he did nothing to reassure me.

'Who are you going with?'
'Planet Perth'
'....hum.'
'What?????'
"Big groups, I could have got you something cheaper and better.'
etc

The warm glow of achievement left me and I barely slept that night for worrying about the next four days stuck in a huge bus full of wankers.

What a waste of time that worry was. The bus only holds 20 people. And there were only 11 of us plus the tour guide. Not one Gap year kid to be seen. The tour guide, Craig, was hardly one of those guys who spent more time admiring their reflection than looking at the road.

In short, it was fantastic.

I had a brilliant time and am sorry to be back.

outback road

It could have been bad. It was a very mixed group- 2 Swiss, 2 Japanese, 3 English, 2 Malaysians, an Italian and a Slovakian- plus one Aussie tour guide. The bus picked me up from the hostel at 6.45am- which would prove to be one of the later starts I would have for the next four days. I had stuffed everything into the luggage room here at the hostel and was sitting on a bench outside shivering and sniffling when the bus arrived. I was greeted with a hearty 'g'day, Helen' and so the adventure began.

Day one was kinda quiet. People were getting to know each other and so most of the photos are of scenery. There was a lot of polite 'where are you from?' and 'what do you do?' type questioning going on.

Craig seemed a little disappointed at first at the lack of animation from the group but as the sun came up and we all thawed out the chatting started. By the time we arrived in Kalbarri for our first night, the ribbing was in full force. We had a proper Aussie barbecue and got to know each other over a few beers (Carlton Cold for me, Emu Bitter for Tibor the Slovakian, Asashi for the Japanese girls and more wine than was strictly necessary for Steph and Zoe from England. Well, they had a lot of wine but showed amazing restraint).


shark bay


The view from the bus had been fantastic all the way there- the Pinnacles were our first real stop- outside of the many hundred toilet breaks we took. Standing stones in their own little desert surrounded by bush, the Pinnacles are beautiful and unique. Once Craig had told us some of the aboriginal history to the area (the stones are people who were turned to stone because of their greed) a more mystical aspect was given to the place. We stopped a lot to look at many other things and Craig was a mine of information.

pinnacles



The second day we headed off to Monkey Mia. We saw rainbows landing in the ocean and the sprays from the whales playing in the distance. We walked in a National Park and saw rock formations such as Nature's Window and took a 'stroll' down the cliff face to the river and back up again' the Z bend. That night we went on an astronomy walk along the beach. Unfortunately the moon lit the sky to brightly that it was difficult to see the stars. Didn't matter to us tourists who were happy to stand on the moon drenched beach and learn a few constellations.

Waking up in Monkey Mia we watched the sun come up over the water - weird thing to do on the West Coast but we were out on a little peninsula. The pelicans started to gather on the shore and so did the people. That is because of the thing that pulls people to Monkey Mia- namely, the dolphins. There is a group of dolphins that play and live in the area and three times a day they come to the shore to be fed. Now this is not Disneyworld- these are wild dolphins who have the choice of whether or not they want to come. And given the small amount of fish they are given, it must be the curiosity that drags them in. There is no way to tell the dolphins what time they must be there so it is all a matter of waiting until they are ready.


monkey mia



People lined the shore and waited while the ranger told us about the dolphins and the history of Monkey Mia. Eventually the star attractions started getting closer to us and soon they were in the area, swimming just a few feet away from where we were paddling. It is hard to say who was the most curious at that place. The dolphins roll their heads to one side so that their eyes are out of the water- all the better to see us with. It was awesome and after they had had their breakfast we got on a boat for a further chance to see more out at sea.


puck the dolphin



dolphin


Full of the joy of the dolphins and the catarmaran cruise around the bay we were more than happy with Craig's suggestion of getting some roasted chickens and having a picnic on the beach. We were on a pure shell beach, made of millions of tiny shells. Great food and even better company now that we had spent the previous two days getting to know each other.


working hard

on the boat


The girls went to swim while Angelika and I just watched, having forgotten our swimsuits. The water was cold at first but soon warmed up- the only problem with swimming was that the water was so shallow.


2linda and friend



As Craig told us to get back on the bus, Angelika said that she wanted to stay and we all agreed. Too bad, we didn't have time and the bus set off along the beach.


1shell beach


Not long after we started, we stopped again. The bus had become bogged down and we were going nowhere without some serious pushing. So push we did. But nothing happened, save the bus sinking further into the beach.


3bogged down bus



We dug around the wheels- Angelika, my young partner in drink, disappeared in a hole she dug under the bus until all we could see were her feet. She had to be pulled out. Wood was placed around the wheels and we all braced ourselves against the back of the bus and pushed- nothing again. The trailer was off and we gave it another try. Going nowhere. Hum.

The phones had no connection on the beach so it was going to be a case of going to get help. Craig enlisted Lee and Fadrina and off they went into the bush, telling us not to be worried for a couple of hours at least. We busied ourselves with more swimming and decided to make a fire. We didn't need one but it gave us something to do. Once lit, it became too hot to stand by and people started to drift away. We were thinking that it might be nice to stay on the beach anyway and had high hopes of not being rescued until the morning. We had plenty of food and an esky stuffed with beer. It looked a great spot to practice our Astronomy homework. People went onto the bus to gather a few things.

'Oh, look, a car' someone said and waved politely. Then people realised that we should be doing more than just waving and we all ran up the beach waving and shouting. The car stopped and came over. The tourists with Alex- our soon to be saviour- helped attach a rope to the front of our bus and videoed as Alex's 4x4 towed us to safety. Once out of the hole Craig turned up with the help we no longer needed. Feeling very pleased with ourselves we told him that we had done it already. And he had to prepare for the ribbing he would be getting once word got out that he had bogged the bus on the beach.


4the rescue


It was too late to make it to our destination of Northampton that night so we stayed at Nanga Station/Resort. We got the beach as the sun went down and before the moon came up and watched the shooting stars and admired the Milky Way.

outback


The rest of the time was spent in the natural spring spa. And when I say the rest of the night, I do mean it as some of us didn't make it out until nearly one. Sitting in the hot spa, supping a cold beer and watching the night sky- does it get any better than that?


5in the spa



We were up even earlier the next day- who said that holidays are for relaxing- as we had plenty of driving and sandboarding to do (yes, I did go sandboarding this time but just the once).


10sheep and tree



6wild flowers



7sandboarding


8sandboarding



9steph and tree


Even given that, we still arrived back in Perth too soon for most of us who were trying to persuade Craig that he should just keep driving. I felt almost like I was saying goodbye to my family as the bus drove away and I walked into the hostel, feeling a little lonely without my 11 new friends around me.


12looking up

13 Comments:

At Sun Jul 24, 09:45:00 PM PDT, Blogger Helen said...

And that's why I have been away. Will try and post some photos soon too- no hardware on this machine to do it.

 
At Sun Jul 24, 09:50:00 PM PDT, Blogger Helen said...

some people have been asking me for a postal address- while I am here in Oz (until 21st August) you can send stuff to

Helen Eames
Post Restante Service
310 George Street
City
Sydney
Australia

Then I can pick stuff up before I leave the country

 
At Mon Jul 25, 12:25:00 AM PDT, Blogger R said...

Sounds lovely - did you eat BBQ dolphin?

 
At Mon Jul 25, 01:31:00 AM PDT, Blogger Helen said...

no but you can post me some if you want!

Am about to put the photos on- give me half an hour or so

 
At Mon Jul 25, 06:00:00 AM PDT, Blogger Helen said...

says you! And why are you out there leaving comments but not signing into messenger???? Unsociable child!

 
At Mon Jul 25, 03:03:00 PM PDT, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Great post Helen! Loved the pics, especially the one of the road sign.

 
At Tue Jul 26, 06:00:00 AM PDT, Blogger Helen said...

s'ok Tania cos I got to talk to you about five minutes later.

As for the road sign, I'll toast you with my next Carlton Cold if you can tell me what it is!

 
At Tue Jul 26, 06:43:00 AM PDT, Anonymous Anonymous said...

craig the tour says -- its a bloody bilby you idiots

 
At Tue Jul 26, 12:30:00 PM PDT, Blogger Les Becker said...

"Monkey Mia"?? I would go there just for the NAME!

Were there little Aussie children with pieces of cardboard boxes at the top of your sand hill to "ride you down" for 2 bucks a pop? Tell me YES, Helen. Lie to me.

I'm afraid to send your hat via post to that address, as it won't make it in time, I think. I'd hate to imagine some Australian postal worker claiming your "Mark-Picked Head Gear", and so am holding out on that slim little chance that an 8 hour drive from Toronto (16 hours by Greyhound bus, I'll bet), won't faze you when the time comes...

 
At Wed Jul 27, 02:22:00 AM PDT, Blogger Helen said...

Ah, Craig, you silver tongues devil, you gave the game away!

Les, hum, not at all sure about this Toronto thing but would also hate to think of that hat rotting away in Sydney GPO.

James, why, yes you could but the park rangers have huge machine guns and advise against that kind of thing (I might have made that up) but bless you for fighting your way through the dialup maze to join us here (am also on dialup right now)

 
At Fri Jul 29, 05:47:00 PM PDT, Blogger Les Becker said...

Hey, now, Tania, the Sault may be "Sticksville", but it is VERY close to the border! We are a "border-town" with Sault Michigan across the International Bridge and everything! Problem is, Helen's coming in to the wrong airport! (we have one of those, too...) But, alas, you are SO right about the "Sticksville" part...

I may just have to send "hat updates" on special occasions: Merry Christmas from Helen's Hat; Happy Hallowe'en from Helen's Hat (disguised as Some Other Body's Hat...), and so on...

 
At Sat Jul 30, 02:06:00 AM PDT, Blogger Helen said...

Now I like the idea of hat updates!

 
At Mon Aug 01, 10:31:00 PM PDT, Anonymous Anonymous said...

:) yeah it was great...

 

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